More Fall Color


Posted by Cindy Marple on Tue Oct 21, 2003 9:32 pm

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More from the UP of Michigan. I tweaked the color some to warm this up, hope I didn't take it too far.
Canon D30, 28-105, iso200, tripod
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by Dennis Olivero on Tue Oct 21, 2003 10:25 pm
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Cindy I really like the composition with the long lines suggested by the thin birches thru the frame. Looking at the bark, I may see a slight magenta cast but I am at least 90% colorblind ( :? ) so who knows...Otherwise excellent as usual and thanks for posting here.
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by E.J. Peiker on Tue Oct 21, 2003 10:35 pm
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Looks like you had a pretty productive trip! Another nice shot. The tree trunks are cyan though and I just did a complete monitor calibration.
 

by Dennis Olivero on Tue Oct 21, 2003 10:40 pm
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I am glad its cyan, you can add some red and make this one really sing!
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by Cindy Marple on Tue Oct 21, 2003 10:46 pm
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Here is the image without my efforts at color correction. I tried the neutral eye-dropper but the results were hiddeous. I think it is a bit too cool here- do I just need to go even a bit warmer??
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by Dennis Olivero on Tue Oct 21, 2003 11:12 pm
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Cindy
Control L for levels
Double click on the white eye dropper and set in the RGB for 240 for all
Double click on the black eye dropper and set RGB for 10 for all
Click on options, set for 0.1% clipping. Click box to save as defaul.
Leave levels to set defaults
Open levels. Slide white slider under the histogram to the left while holding down alt key. Look for first pixel to light up on the bark of the tree. It will be a light cyan color if that is the cast. Zoom into that pixel and click on white eye dropper then sample into that area. Color cast will be gone in the whites. Do the same for blacks...
This is what I have to do because I seem to not see color well

=======
Option two

Control M for curves. Select not master but the Red which will be inverse with the cyan. click in the middle of the line on the grid to set a point. Use the up arrow key a click at a time to add some red to remove the cyan cast. If you have a good eye it will be easier to do this and correct it by eye. Sometimes you can arrow up and down to see the point at which the transition occurs.


Either option should work
Hope this helps. This picture is so nice it really deserves the extra little work!

Good luck. Maybe others will add in their methods for neutralizing casts..
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by blovius on Wed Oct 22, 2003 8:18 am
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cindy - have you discovered the wonders of working in LAB color space?
i do 95% of my color/contrast and ALL of my USM work in LAB. this image is a perfect subject for LAB
[url=http://www.adirondacklight.net][b]AdirondackLight[/b][/url] [b][i]and[/i][/b] [url=http://landscapist.squarespace.com/][b]The Landscapist[/b][/url]
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by Harvey Edelman on Wed Oct 22, 2003 8:32 am
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Nice image despite the cast. BTW...I use the same workflow and setting in levels that Dennis described and it always works well for me.
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by Tim Grams on Wed Oct 22, 2003 9:13 am
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I've enjoyed your images from the UP. You certainly hit the colors at a good time. I like the strong vertical lines in this one.
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by blovius on Wed Oct 22, 2003 11:28 am
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the original seemed to have a lot of UV mucking up the colors, esp in the tree trunks. all color work done in LAB. even for a quick and dirty fix on a low res image, it looks more "real" to me. what do you think?
[url=http://www.adirondacklight.net][b]AdirondackLight[/b][/url] [b][i]and[/i][/b] [url=http://landscapist.squarespace.com/][b]The Landscapist[/b][/url]
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My photographs aim at being true, not at being beautiful because, [i]what is true[/i] is most often beautiful.
 

by Rich S on Wed Oct 22, 2003 5:57 pm
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Nicely composed and I like the bit of understatement in the colors. I actually prefer the first, but would try image>adjust>hues and then reduce cyan by maybe 40% and slightly bump the red, maybe 10%.

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by NDCheryl on Wed Oct 22, 2003 8:06 pm
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Another great shot Cindy. You guys definitely hit it right for the colors.
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by Cindy Marple on Wed Oct 22, 2003 10:58 pm
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions and advice. I will try some of the techniques described. Mark thanks for the repost this does look much better.
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