Moderator: E.J. Peiker

All times are UTC-05:00

  
« Previous topic | Next topic »  
Reply to topic  
 First unread post  | 8 posts | 
by Mark Picard on Fri Sep 16, 2011 8:09 pm
User avatar
Mark Picard
Forum Contributor
Posts: 2369
Joined: 29 Mar 2005
Location: Northern Maine
I'm printing some pano shots that measure approximately 48" wide. I'm in need of an alternative to foam core backing material (it ends up way to expensive to use), such as masonite or something similar. I know I can use the masonite, but what about the acid-free aspect? Is there a coating or spray that would seal the masonite from the acids in it, or another tecnique you might know of?
Mark Picard
Website:  http://www.markpicard.com
Maine Photography Workshops
 

by Randy Mehoves on Sat Sep 17, 2011 10:58 am
User avatar
Randy Mehoves
Forum Contributor
Posts: 3495
Joined: 29 Aug 2003
There is a better grade of Masonite that is less harmful to paper I believe it is a light tan color. Just off the top of my head I'm thinking any grade of Masonite is going to cost more that 40x60 Foamcore. You might try checking about getting a box of Foamcore at wholesale and cut it yourself.
If it were my prints I would stay away from Masonite even the light tan version and maybe consider Coroplast if you really don't want to go the Foamcore route.
Randy Mehoves
http://www.randymehovesphotography.com
 

by Mark Picard on Sat Sep 17, 2011 1:05 pm
User avatar
Mark Picard
Forum Contributor
Posts: 2369
Joined: 29 Mar 2005
Location: Northern Maine
Randy Mehoves wrote:There is a better grade of Masonite that is less harmful to paper I believe it is a light tan color. Just off the top of my head I'm thinking any grade of Masonite is going to cost more that 40x60 Foamcore. You might try checking about getting a box of Foamcore at wholesale and cut it yourself.
If it were my prints I would stay away from Masonite even the light tan version and maybe consider Coroplast if you really don't want to go the Foamcore route.
Thanks Randy - I figured this out before and the 40x60 foamcore (acid free) costs about $22. per sheet (counting very expensive freight costs) and unfortunately I'd get only one backing per sheet because of the over 20" height of the framed size. The masonite is $20. per 48"x96" sheet, and I could get four backs out of it ($5 per backing). No shipping costs, as it would come from my local lumber yard. I might be asking too much, and will probably have to bite the bullet and get the foamcore. :x
Mark Picard
Website:  http://www.markpicard.com
Maine Photography Workshops
 

by Randy Mehoves on Sat Sep 17, 2011 2:10 pm
User avatar
Randy Mehoves
Forum Contributor
Posts: 3495
Joined: 29 Aug 2003
Mark, maybe you can find a local Frame Shop and split (or even buy by yourself) a box of 48x96 Foamcore. We would do that with a sign company and the shipping would be much lower or even nothing as many Frame Shops have a supplier who deliver once a week.
Randy Mehoves
http://www.randymehovesphotography.com
 

by Les Voorhis on Sat Sep 17, 2011 5:44 pm
User avatar
Les Voorhis
Forum Contributor
Posts: 1262
Joined: 8 Sep 2003
Location: Belle Fourche and Spearfish South Dakota
Member #:01066
Mark,

The other option (depending on how you plan to mount the print to the board) is to do what oil painters do and put Jesso on the masonite board. This is an acid free buffer that you put several layers on and then sand smooth. I have used it before and it makes a good base for spray or dry mounting to. After you Jesso the board I would sand it smooth with a 220 grit sandpaper so that it is glass smooth before mounting to it. We do this quite often for larger prints.

Also, another option is to buy 40 x 60 paper mat (such as Crescent's decorative series) the facing paper is acid free and mount your print to that. It is MUCH cheaper than foam core and you can then bond it to whatever you like. We have used pieces of foam core cut into pieces to fit, masonite, or even 1/4 plywood or particle board. If you use a strong adhesive spray such as Super 77 it won't eat through the mat board like liquid nails will and the mat board acts as a barrier for the acid free component. I am doing this with almost all of my larger pieces now. The mat board mounts well, it just doesn't have the rigidity to stand on its own without something else to give it strength.
Les Voorhis
Focus West Gallery, Framing and Gifts
http://www.focuswestgallery.com
http://www.outdoorphotoworkshops.com
 

by Mark Picard on Sun Sep 18, 2011 7:18 am
User avatar
Mark Picard
Forum Contributor
Posts: 2369
Joined: 29 Mar 2005
Location: Northern Maine
Les Voorhis wrote:Mark,

The other option (depending on how you plan to mount the print to the board) is to do what oil painters do and put Jesso on the masonite board. This is an acid free buffer that you put several layers on and then sand smooth. I have used it before and it makes a good base for spray or dry mounting to. After you Jesso the board I would sand it smooth with a 220 grit sandpaper so that it is glass smooth before mounting to it. We do this quite often for larger prints.

Also, another option is to buy 40 x 60 paper mat (such as Crescent's decorative series) the facing paper is acid free and mount your print to that. It is MUCH cheaper than foam core and you can then bond it to whatever you like. We have used pieces of foam core cut into pieces to fit, masonite, or even 1/4 plywood or particle board. If you use a strong adhesive spray such as Super 77 it won't eat through the mat board like liquid nails will and the mat board acts as a barrier for the acid free component. I am doing this with almost all of my larger pieces now. The mat board mounts well, it just doesn't have the rigidity to stand on its own without something else to give it strength.
Ah, that's the ticket! Thanks much Les as I figured you'd be the one with a solution to my problem! That makes good sense and I'm off to buy some Jesso. I have somewhat of an art background and didn't realize the Jesso was for acid free protection too.
Mark Picard
Website:  http://www.markpicard.com
Maine Photography Workshops
 

by Les Voorhis on Sun Sep 18, 2011 4:32 pm
User avatar
Les Voorhis
Forum Contributor
Posts: 1262
Joined: 8 Sep 2003
Location: Belle Fourche and Spearfish South Dakota
Member #:01066
Yep,

Jesso is what oil painters use to cover their boards befor they paint on them. If it's good enough for an original oil...! You may want to test your mounting method to be sure it adheres well before going with a full mount. I haven't had any issues but it never hurts to test. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.

Cheers!
Les Voorhis
Focus West Gallery, Framing and Gifts
http://www.focuswestgallery.com
http://www.outdoorphotoworkshops.com
 

by Dan Berg on Sat Sep 24, 2011 6:27 am
Dan Berg
Forum Contributor
Posts: 21
Joined: 6 Nov 2008
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Mark Picard wrote:
Randy Mehoves wrote:There is a better grade of Masonite that is less harmful to paper I believe it is a light tan color. Just off the top of my head I'm thinking any grade of Masonite is going to cost more that 40x60 Foamcore. You might try checking about getting a box of Foamcore at wholesale and cut it yourself.
If it were my prints I would stay away from Masonite even the light tan version and maybe consider Coroplast if you really don't want to go the Foamcore route.
Thanks Randy - I figured this out before and the 40x60 foamcore (acid free) costs about $22. per sheet (counting very expensive freight costs) and unfortunately I'd get only one backing per sheet because of the over 20" height of the framed size. The masonite is $20. per 48"x96" sheet, and I could get four backs out of it ($5 per backing). No shipping costs, as it would come from my local lumber yard. I might be asking too much, and will probably have to bite the bullet and get the foamcore. :x

I do a ton of panos and the foamboard is just not a suitable material when you get into larger sizes.
These products are in a different price point but will give you a much better finished product.
Gatorboard,3/16",3/8" and 1/2". Those are the 3 I use.
I also use 2mm,3mm and 4mm Dibond.
I would say 95% of our pano work is on canvas and then attached to these substrates.
Miracle Muck for wet mounting canvas to gatormount.
Print mount ultra through our laminators to adhere canvas to Dibond.
If these are home projects for yourself you cannot go wrong with what you are doing. If you are selling them then I would look at a better backer.

Dan Berg
Dan Berg
http://www.bergscanvasgallery.com http://www.bergscanvasgallery.blogspot.com
 

Display posts from previous:  Sort by:  
8 posts | 
  

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group