Macro Lens

I have a Canon 7D and currently use a 100mm macro lens (the older version). I am quite interested in doing macro and wonder what lenses you might recommend for improving my work. I also have a 500 mm, 1.4 TC, extension tubes, but find the DOF to be quite thin. Any suggestions for another lens?

Jackie, my favorite butterfly rig is the 300/4L IS and an extension tube. I also have the 100/2.8 macro (old version). I use the 100 for copying and have used it for macro, but I am not as pleased with the 100 as I'd like to be.

I have thought about the Canon 180 or the Sigma 150 macros, but the 300 with an extension tube works well for me.

jn

I like a 300mm f/4 IS with extension tube(s) and 1.4x Tele-extender. This combo has proven to be a killer butterfly/dragonfly lens handheld.

Ka -Ching.........I will check it out:). Might just sell the 500.............

The best macro lens that I have used is the new Sigma 150mm OS version. Takes TC's well, very sharp, and 4-stop stabilization. Also features the new finish which looks to be very durable.

The 300F4 with extension tubes is an excellent combo for dragonflies and butterflies due to the lenses short minimum focus distance, For a real 1:1 macro lens i would look at the Sigma 150mm

Dave

True, the 300mm isn't a true macro lens but being as she already stated she has a 100mm macro lens the 300mm is a great lens to add to her arsenal.

The 300 f4 is an adequate lens for some uses. However, the Canon 180 macro rises to a higher plane of detail and sharpness for butterflys and dragonflys. For examples see the insects on flowers album on my Picasa site.

I second Richard's remarks. I had the 300/4 IS lens and the 180 macro. I sold the 300/4 in order to make room for another lens in the bag. I loved the 300/4 but when I really wanted to do macro, I always pulled the 180 out of the bag. Still have it, still use it, still love it.
Kevin

Thanks for all the replies, it will help me to make a decision. The 180 must be very sharp, as I had heard that the 300 is pretty much the sharpest lens in the Canon line-up.

If you want to save some money without losing one bit of image quality and hardly any working distance, consider the Sigma 150 f/2.8 macro. One of, if not the finest macro lens in the world from an image quality standpoint.

E.J. any experience with the new Sigma 150?

No all my experience is with the non OS.

Depnds on what you want to shoot with it Jackie, a 150-180 mm lens would be a replacement for the 100mm macro lens. A 300mm f4 really shines with larger butterflies and dragonflies where you can use it handheld due to the IS it also af's quite quickly with an extension tube and 1.4x. The macro lenses generally don't AF all that well and are quite slow at it and don't have IS so will be used on a tripod generally.

I use both the 300mm and an old 200m f4 FD macro lens. The 300 is used for butterflies down to about 35mm in size or so and the 200mm is used for damselflies and small butterflies. I also use an MP-E 65mm but that is defineitely just for static subjects. I can say for the subjects I shoot, a 180mm lens would be inadequate as many are quite flightly, the extra working distance of the 300mm and the AF really helps on active butterflies/dragonflies. The flexibility or working hand held really helps as often I find my self in terrain where a tripod is a real hinderance.

The advantage of the 150-180mm macro lenses over your 100m is a bit more workng distance and reduced angle of view which can be quite helpful with BG control. Dof is always going to be a problem with macro, you have to get parallel to your subject, DOF is related to aperture and subject magnification and changing lenses at the same subject size in frame won't help DOF. What will help is that the longer lenses are easier to parallel to the subject a small change in angle has less effect when you are further from the subject.

Very thorough Chris, and just what I was looking for. Thank you for taking the time to comment with a very detailed explanation. Might just trade in the 500 and get the 300 and another lens to be decided.

There are a few macro lenses that have I.S like Nikons 105VR and the new Sigma 150mm OS, Canons new 100mm macro has IS, Agree that AF on a macro lens is slow

Dave

My experience is that IS is quite useful at the magnifications achieved wth a 300mm f4 + tube, I also use AI servo when using that as it seems to be capable of compensating to some extent for back and forth movement of the camera/lens. When you start getting into the 1:2 to 1:1 territory of the 150-180mm macro lenses, you are dealing with very limited DOF and any movement back and forth can pull you out of the available DOF. They really are complimentary lenses for maco work and while the 150-180 lens can do some of the work of the 300mm they are not as flexible and harder work to get good shots of larger insests and the like.

The 300 mm f4 lens is also an excellent lens for shooting terrestrial orchids and similar style flowers, the narrow angle of view giving good BG control and quite capable of being used handheld with Ai Servo compensating for slight breezes. I used mine to good effect for that purpose quite a bit last season.

I am a macro freak and shoot/own all the lenses you mentioned (Canon 100mm old, 300mm f4, 180mm), shoot thousands of images a week, as this is my business, photo tours. In the summer, macro is a huge part of my tours.

Your old 100mm is great IMO. Brutally sharp. I own 2. Try using your 1.4 on it. Dare I read deeper into your question and move off the lens issue without suffering the wrath of the engineer/technoids here?
You already own a great macro lens. Where you seem to be hurting is light. Photography is all about light. You can take a HUGE leap up in your macro imagery with either the Canon Ringlight, or the Canon Twinlight. Clients about fall over when I show them the difference between macro with and without flash.

After that, the macro hang up is focus and composition. I suggest a monopod in order to get good focus without being ball and chained to a tripod. Get the little Manfrotto tilt head 234 that has the quick release. Focus in macro is a matter of manually focusing roughly. THEN, body focus, that is: move back and forth ever so slightly and click right when you see the image super sharp. Do this 20X and one or more will be smoking sharp. Hold your breath, concentrate, and make darn sure your viewfinder diopter is set for your eye. If no diopter adjuster, wear your glasses, just NOT sunglasses.

This is assuming you are hiking, and not shooting in a macro studio. For easier composition, I suggest dropping the big $190 on a Canon tripod mount ring for your 100mm so you can spin the rig fast to get pleasing compositions. The Canon 180mm macro comes with this ring, and if you buy the plastic adapter for $30 you can use it also for the 100mm. Do toss the monopod aside when shooting on your belly or other places where the rig is in the way.

Next, you are going to need quality electrical power for your flash. I recommend using the Imedion batteries and charger sold here on NSN. You will do best with 12 batteries. 4 in your flash, and 8 in the booster. The Canon booster is junk. I have 2 that are falling apart, in spite of their $150 price tag. I recommend the $50 JJC FB1 compact battery pack. I carry that booster in a think tank flash pouch mounted on my regular waist belt.

My 300mm f4 isn’t really a macro lens,depending on how we define macro, but I wing it on macro of big subjects like swallowtail butterflies. Not nearly as sharp as my Canon 100mm, which I believe to be the sharpest lens Canon makes, though I do not own them all.

My Canon 180mm macros: I own 2, one for me, one for my spouse. This is their best overall macro lens because it allows you to stay back a bit and not spook your subject. It is big, expensive, and heavy, but oh so sweet!

Bottom line IMO: get the light (flash, batteries, charger, booster) and stability thing down first. Start with adding your 1.4 on the 100mm. After that, look into a used Canon pro body which renders a superb photo compared to the Canon 7D. Lenses are not your issue IMO.

God help you if you sell your 500mm! It is THE bird lens. If you regret selling it, it may cost you $10,000 to get another one.

What about an IS 300mm f/2.8 with extensions tubes?

Jackie Schuknecht wrote: I also have a 500 mm, 1.4 TC, extension tubes, but find the DOF to be quite thin. Any suggestions for another lens?

Just wanted to let you know Jackie that DOF is a constant determined by magnification. The lens you use to get to that magnification has makes no differnce in DOF. For instance say your shooting a 1/2 lifesize with your 100mm macro and then take the same image at 1/2 lifesize with your 500mm with enough extension to get that magnification the DOF will be indentical.