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by dbolt on Wed Dec 05, 2018 10:49 am
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Yes, I know the usual answer - monitor too bright.  But, in this case, I calibrated the monitor (Dell 2410) with i1Studio to a luminosity of 100 and the printer (Epson p800) is calibrated with the same spectrophotometer.   Prints (same paper used to calibrate printer) made with PSCC look about 1.5 stops darker than the monitor based upon the results of 2 prints, one made with exposure set at +1 and another with exposure of +2. 
 
Any suggestions for getting better agreement between monitor and printer?  Recalibration of the monitor at 80 or 90 will be done, but it appears that something more than just the luminosity setting of the monitor is at play here.
Douglas Bolt
Maryland, USA
http://dougboltphotography.com
 

by signgrap on Wed Dec 05, 2018 1:33 pm
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Is this the first time you're printing with the P800 ?
When I started using the P800 I got prints that were dark, had been using a Epson 4800 that matched the same monitor perfectly but the P800 never did.
I ended up calibrating luminosity @ 85 which gets me close but never the match the 4800 got with the same monitor with the luminosity @ 100. I typically have to add an additional .25 exposure boost to get prints that look right. And yes I was using the same papers for both printers. Can't give you a reason why this occurs only my workaround.
Dick Ludwig
 

by dbolt on Wed Dec 05, 2018 1:42 pm
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Thanks, Dick. Yes, the p800 is fairly new. It replaced an 3880 that started leaking ink. I'll see if a luminosity of 80 does the trick. 80 just seems low to me, but if it solves the problem, so what. Because luminosity of 100 seemed much darker that I expected suggested to me that something other than luminosity setting on the monitor might be causing the dark prints.

I'll get right on to another calibration process.
Douglas Bolt
Maryland, USA
http://dougboltphotography.com
 

by signgrap on Wed Dec 05, 2018 1:53 pm
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dbolt wrote:
Thanks, Dick.  Yes, the p800 is fairly new.  It replaced an 3880 that started leaking ink.  I'll see if a luminosity of 80 does the trick.  80 just seems low to me, but if it solves the problem, so what.  Because luminosity of 100 seemed much darker that I expected  suggested to me that something other than luminosity setting on the monitor might be causing the dark prints.

I'll get right on to another calibration process.

I used 85 as I too was reluctant to go to 80 which made me uncomfortable that low.
Dick Ludwig
 

by dbolt on Wed Dec 05, 2018 2:00 pm
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It's running now aimed at 80. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Douglas Bolt
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http://dougboltphotography.com
 

by dbolt on Wed Dec 05, 2018 7:48 pm
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Dick,
The first run with a setting of 80 looked pretty good, but maybe a bit too light, so I tried a setting of 90. it was too dark by a lot. So I tried 80 again and it too was too dark. Not sure what to make of the variation. Also, the blues in all three calibrations printed as purple. Fwiw, the last calibration for luminosity of 80 required a brightness of 9, R=97, G=96, and G=100. The first calibration of 80 required brightness of 21, R=95, g=93 and b=100. For lum=90 required brightness of 12, r+97, g=97 and b=100. I'm still not satisfied with the results. The test prints for the above results were from an image I want to print. Aditional prints will be with a standard printer test image.
Douglas Bolt
Maryland, USA
http://dougboltphotography.com
 

by signgrap on Wed Dec 05, 2018 8:49 pm
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dbolt wrote:
Dick,
The first run with a setting of 80 looked pretty good, but maybe a bit too light, so I tried a setting of 90.  it was too dark by a lot.  So I tried 80 again and it too was too dark.  Not sure what to make of the variation.  Also, the blues in all three calibrations printed as purple.  Fwiw, the last calibration for luminosity of 80 required a brightness of 9, R=97, G=96, and G=100.  The first calibration of 80 required brightness of 21, R=95, g=93 and b=100.  For lum=90 required brightness of 12, r+97, g=97 and b=100.  I'm still not satisfied with the results.  The test prints for the above results were from an image I want to print.  Aditional prints will be with a standard printer test image.

Are you able to set it to 85?
Dick Ludwig
 

by dbolt on Wed Dec 05, 2018 9:24 pm
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Dick,
The first run with a setting of 80 looked pretty good, but maybe a bit too light, so I tried a setting of 90. it was too dark by a lot. So I tried 80 again and it too was too dark. Not sure what to make of the variation. Also, the blues in all three calibrations printed as purple. Fwiw, the last calibration for luminosity of 80 required a brightness of 9, R=97, G=96, and G=100. The first calibration of 80 required brightness of 21, R=95, g=93 and b=100. For lum=90 required brightness of 12, r+97, g=97 and b=100. I'm still not satisfied with the results. The test prints for the above results were from an image I want to print. Aditional prints will be with a standard printer test image.
Douglas Bolt
Maryland, USA
http://dougboltphotography.com
 

by signgrap on Thu Dec 06, 2018 11:34 am
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Not sure way you aren't able to use 85 instead of a choice between only 80 or 90.
I'm using a NEC SpectraView 2690 perhaps it's a difference in the software.
My prints always had correct color the only problem they had was they were darker than they should be.
By using 85 and adding .25 exposure the prints and monitor match.
Dick Ludwig
 

by bradmangas on Fri Dec 07, 2018 6:34 pm
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I see many folks talking about specific luminosity settings. Forget that, pay no attention to any specific number. Depending on factors such as your viewing environment, lighting conditions (light color and brightness) luminosity settings can vary greatly.

Here is what you do. Purchase an OttLite natural daylight desk lamp. Place this close to your monitor. Under the light of the Ott lamp view a piece of the printer paper you will using. On your display create a full screen background of RGB color 255,255,255.

Compare the paper under the Ott lamp to your screen. Make adjustments in your calibration software to match the screen to the paper.
 

by dbolt on Sat Dec 08, 2018 9:20 am
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I use an Ott desk lamp to view prints, but I'm afraid I don't understand what you mean by "make adjustments in your calibration software to match screen to paper". Would you please explain in more detail.
Douglas Bolt
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http://dougboltphotography.com
 

by bradmangas on Mon Dec 10, 2018 5:03 pm
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Since your question was originally concerning luminosity that is where you should start.
 

by dbolt on Tue Dec 11, 2018 8:29 pm
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Yes, luminosity of print does not agree with luminosity of monitor (prints still too dark) even though the display is calibrated at 80 with i1Studio. I don't see a great deal of difference in prints made with files made while the display was calibrated with 80 - 120. They are all too dark. Seems to me that something more than just luminosity calibration of the monitor is causing the issue.
Douglas Bolt
Maryland, USA
http://dougboltphotography.com
 

by signgrap on Tue Dec 11, 2018 10:13 pm
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dbolt wrote:
Yes, luminosity of print does not agree with luminosity of monitor (prints still too dark) even though the display is calibrated at 80 with i1Studio.  I don't see a great deal of difference in prints made with files made while the display was calibrated with 80 - 120.  They are all too dark.  Seems to me that something more than just luminosity calibration of the monitor is causing the issue.

Are you sure that i1Studio is calibrating properly?
Dick Ludwig
 

by dbolt on Wed Dec 12, 2018 9:25 am
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I'm not sure of much of anything about this issue. However, when the i1Studio instructs to calibrate, I turn the dial to calibrate and after a few seconds, it says to turn to measure.

I've wondered if there might be some "feature" in CC that affects the display profile.
Douglas Bolt
Maryland, USA
http://dougboltphotography.com
 

by dbolt on Wed Dec 12, 2018 9:25 am
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I'm not sure of much of anything about this issue. However, when the i1Studio instructs to calibrate, I turn the dial to calibrate and after a few seconds, it says to turn to measure.

I've wondered if there might be some "feature" in CC that affects the display profile.
Douglas Bolt
Maryland, USA
http://dougboltphotography.com
 

by signgrap on Wed Dec 12, 2018 12:57 pm
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Doug, when you calibrate your monitor luminous at 120 and then immediately at 80 do you see a change in screen brightness. A 40 point change should be easy to see, a 5 point change would be hard to see. So you need to do at least a 40 point differential to verify that the puck is actually making a change in luminescence. Just trying to eliminate the obvious before looking at differences in software which would be less likely.
Dick Ludwig
 

by dbolt on Wed Dec 12, 2018 6:41 pm
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Dick,
Yes, the brightness of the screen is noticeable. And, the brightness of the prints are different also, but still darker than the monitor even when the print was prepared with CC using the 80Lum profile. It just doesn't seem to me that a monitor calibration at 80Lum would permit me to produce files that print too dark.
Douglas Bolt
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http://dougboltphotography.com
 

by signgrap on Wed Dec 12, 2018 9:06 pm
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OK it seems the puck is doing what it should be doing.
I don't use CC so I can't be of help there. Perhaps you should post a question in Digital forum re CC and anything you should be doing to make CC aware of/use the monitor calibration when printing.
Dick Ludwig
 

by E.J. Peiker on Thu Dec 13, 2018 1:09 pm
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One thing a lot of people get confused over is the fact that the paper is reflected light and absorbs light while the monitor is transmitted light. Unless you are viewing the print in full daylight at about 5000K it's always going to look darker, this is especially true for matte papers which reflect a lot less light and have a much lower dynamic range than glossy papers. The paper's dynamic range also makes a huge difference in the perceived brightness. Your monitor can display at least 10 stops of light from bright white to solid black - most can do much more than that where a matte paper might be able to eek out 6 stops. This has the effect of more of the shadows dropping out resulting in the perception of a darker print.

If you aren't already soft proofing with your printer and paper profile and making adjustments on the soft proof to get it to look like you want on paper, you should definitely start.
 

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