Taqping Prints on Mattes-issue

Hello
I scotch tape my 177x22 prints onto custom made mattes from Michaels Craft stores and then frame them.
What I notices is that the print appears wavy, as if not totally flat from behind. I know I taped it properly and flat and I also place some cardboard/paper towels behind the image to sorta push it towards the glass. Still does not look right.
Does anyone have this issue? any advice?
thanks so much
James Vellozzi

James,

Did you hinge the print with only one section of tape at the top or did you tape all four sides? A single hinge at the top (simple or T) is the way to go. A print of that size will still likely wave with a hinge but not as bad as if you taped it on all four sides. The print is constantly expanding and contracting as is the mat and if it is taped solid it has no room to move and will buckle bad. The hinge gives everything room to move. Also a print of that size really should be mounted with a press if you want it perfectly flat. Let me know if you need more info on hinging techniques.

Hi Les
thanks for the advice. I will try taping it only at the top. When you say it should be mounted with a press, what do you mean? Can this be done at home? I never heard of this procedure.
thanks again
James

Les Voorhis wrote:James,

Did you hinge the print with only one section of tape at the top or did you tape all four sides? A single hinge at the top (simple or T) is the way to go. A print of that size will still likely wave with a hinge but not as bad as if you taped it on all four sides. The print is constantly expanding and contracting as is the mat and if it is taped solid it has no room to move and will buckle bad. The hinge gives everything room to move. Also a print of that size really should be mounted with a press if you want it perfectly flat. Let me know if you need more info on hinging techniques.

Les is likely referring to dry mounting. The print is mounted to a backing board using an adhesive tissue (dry mount tissue) that is activated using a dry mount press. Heat and pressure are used in the process.

Here is a short article about this process:

http://www.grafphoto.com/wordpress/2008 ... -mounting/

Here's a very useful article on various mounting techniques, including T- and V-hinging - complete with illustrations:
http://www.framedestination.com/picture ... nting.html

I like photo corners, which leave the print free of adhesive. Leave 1/16" or so all around for expansion.

Agree only tape from the top using a t-hinge - that allows the print to expand and contract and move within the frame. Also pressing it tightly against the glass if probably not the best idea either. The mat should hold the print away from the glass.

Everything that has been said so far is spot on. I'll add that large prints, particularly those not printed on a heavyweight paper, will always wave a bit unless dry mounted. Dry mounting is really the only way to ensure a print lays completely flat.

T-hinges are probably the quickest and best way to mount prints yourself. I worked in a Michael's frame shop for five months as a certified custom framer, and although I really like photo corners, they can be time consuming to place and are usually visible unless the mat overlaps the print by more than the 1/4" standard (printing with a border and allowing the mat to come in more solves that easily).

Michael's will have a vacuum press and the ability to dry mount your prints for you if you wish. Note that they typically dry mount to foam core, which is much thicker than paper and can be a pain to frame unless you plan for it in advance.

Kari:

Fortunately I happened to see your yesterday's post when checking on something else. For unknown reasons, NatureScapes no longer provides me with automatic notification of new posts.

In my experience, placing photo corners is quite simple and only takes a few seconds. Overlap problems are simplified when corners with cutouts are employed, e.g., Lineco's.

I recently rewatched the 2007 videos FROM CAMERA TO PRINT by Michael Reichmann and Jeff Schewe. Michael demonstrates how he can completely frame a print (including matt-cutting, mounting, glazing and framing) in less than half an hour! He uses a combination of T-hinges and photo corners.

It's still not clear to me how a print can expand and contract freely when it is firmly clamped between backing board and overmat in a frame.

James