Basics: Nature Videography with DSLR

1.   Is there an accessory (probably right angle) that can be placed on the LCD to allow the videographer to have a much greater perspective of the subject?  

              I find it too difficult to focus.  But I did just start to take a few clips; i.e. I am new to it. 

2.  Can someone recommend a tutorial for learning just the basics of nature videography with a DSLR.  

              A turkey has been visiting my house every day since about mid-Spring.  Have been trying to get a few clips for my website.  

3.  It does not take much of a video length to be prohibitively long to upload to the website.  What am I missing?

Thank you.

What camera are you using? A lot of your questions are camera specific, an articulating screen, AF or manual, an EVF or OVF, zebras and other aids etc.

Nikon D610

On #3, you convert in your video software program to a more youtube friendly codec. That makes it more manageable (like mp4). Unless you are doing an interview, keep it short (remember those home movies every one was forced to watch) or do numerous clips to highlight what you are trying to get across.

The Hoodman loupe is probably a very desirable product for shooting video with a DSLR. It offers glare screening and magnification is available, as well.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/control ... &A=details

As an alternative to the full size product above, you could use the loupe with the video strap:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?N= ... yes&sts=pi

Strap:

http://hoodmanusa.com/cgi/commerce.cgi? ... &key=HSLRM

Magnifier:

http://hoodmanusa.com/cgi/commerce.cgi? ... ey=HMAG3.0

Sorry if some of the links are not working well. Hoodman's site is very slow today it seems.

Here's a link to several sites offering tips on shooting video with a DSLR:

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=c ... ith%20dslr

Joe

Thanks

Checked out the Hoodman video inside that link. Looks like this is another solid Hoodman tool.

A Sony A7RII isn't a bad idea for shooting video with dSLR glass either

This link might help you:

http://imaging.nikon.com/support/digitu ... ovies.html

Joe

Mike in O wrote:Unless you are doing an interview, keep it short (remember those home movies every one was forced to watch) or do numerous clips to highlight what you are trying to get across.

You are right about that. Many home wildlife videos are much too long.  Use just enough video to tell the story.  Let's take for example a home video of an owl perched in a tree in the wild. Viewer's eyes start to glaze over and they become impatient if one has to sit through even 20 seconds of the same shot (unless you are a biologist or ornithologist studying the bird or the person who filmed it and reliving the moment). In a professionally done documentary, the director or editor may not even linger for more than 5 seconds on one pose. Unless every few seconds the owl is doing something slightly different and the behaviour is important in the chain of events to tell a story. If they had to linger, longer than normal on a scene they would show the same scene but with short snippets from various perspectives (show a close-up of the head or eyes, show wider shot, zoom back in, show a different angle, etc.). When I watch these nature shows, it shows how much video they actually have to shoot and how very little makes it onto the screen. The vast majority of footage likely ends up on the cutting floor. 

For DSLR users who are using their kit for photography and hoping to get snippets of videos done on the fly, a loupe is NOT the best way to go. A loupe stuck on the back of the LCD forces your posture to conform to the height of the tripod and can be really uncomfortable. I have used Zacuto Z-finders for plenty of years and they are tough and a grade higher than my other rubberized Hoodman. That said, when I am on a tripod or monopod, I prefer a small monitor such as those by Smallhd for ease of use. They have recently introduced the 702 Bright(https://www.smallhd.com/lp/702-bright/) which is a fabulous monitor and allows you to compose in bright daylight. And with a monitor on the hotshoe, you will be better positioned to make minute movements to follow the action of your subjects.

Other than an outdoor monitor, a good fluid head is essential. Gimbal heads no matter how smooth will never be a fluid head. Good video fluid heads will be from Sachtler, Vinten, O'Conner or even RRS. Get one and you can replace your gimbal with it. I do not shoot wildlife with the head tightened down but rather with the controls loosened slightly just in case I need to pan or tilt at a moment's notice.

Hope this helps.