Travel

Tundra Photography in Västerbotten County, Sweden

by | May 1, 2008

© Andreas KanonFew places offer better unrestricted accessibility to the tundra than Sweden. During June, which is the best time to visit, the sun barely sets so photographers have basically round the clock photo opportunities. What makes Sweden unique for nature photographers is Allemansrätten, translated as the Right of Public Access, everyman’s right or more commonly as the Freedom to Roam law. This law enables one to park and just walk off into the wild without any special permits needed.

Dunlin in breeding plumage, Stekenjokk © Andreas Kanon

Dunlin in breeding plumage at Stekenjokk

Female willow ptarmigan, Marsliden Nature Preserve © Andreas Kanon

Female Willow Ptarmigan in Marsliden Nature Preserve

Marsliden Nature Preserve from Mount Ropentjakke © Andreas Kanon

Marsliden Nature Preserve from Mount Ropentjakke

Midnight sun at Lake Kultsjîn © Andreas Kanon

Midnight Sun at Lake Kultsjîn

As long as a photographer is willing to hike, there is almost an endless amount of places to look for species to photograph. Most photography subjects are not directly at the roadside so some hiking will be involved. It is best to pack light.

Portable blinds are very useful as cover, allowing one to photograph birds and wildlife in their normal routine. Most birds will be on nests during June, so use caution if they show behavior trying to lead you away from a nest site.

Stekenjokk

Stekenjokk is one of the better known places for bird photography on the tundra. Located close to the Norwegian border between Jämtland and Västerbotten Counties, what makes Stekenjokk so popular is that it is one of only two places in Sweden where the road actually leads up on the tundra. At the road’s highest point, 2515 feet above sea level, all one can see is tundra, small ponds, lakes and creeks. The road was built to support a sulfur and silver mine which closed in 1988; all that remains of the mine today is a man made lake.

There are two main rivers in Stekenjokk, the Gavostjukke River and the Saxån River. The Gavostjukke River becomes a mighty waterfall as it drops into the Leipik River.

A great variety of birds can be found nesting at Stekenjokk, from Temminck’s Stint and Long-Tailed Duck to Gyrfalcon and Eurasian Dotterel. The Saxån River runs into Lake Kultsjön where it creates a meandering delta, which also supports a great number of waterfowl and waders. Here one can find Great Snipes displaying during the mating season. Common Kestrels frequently patrol the open meadows on the slopes leading down to Lake Kultsjön.

One may camp overnight in Stekenjokk, which is also the preferred way many of the locals spend their time. As an alternative to camping there is a small mountain village called Klimpfjäll, which offers a hotel that is just a 20-minute drive from the tundra. For a more convenient stay in a little larger mountain village, Saxnäs is about 30 minutes down the same road.

Marsfjällets Nature Preserve

Located just hours south of the Arctic Circle, there is Marslidens Nature Preserve (Marsfjällets Naturreservat). It is a hidden gem well worth the visit.

Although not as easily accessible as Stekenjokk, Marslidens does offer absolutely stunning scenery and wildlife photo opportunities. About an hour-and-a-half drive east from Stekenjokk, the small, one hundred-fifty-year-old mountain village of Marsliden offers campgrounds as well as cabins for rent. There is also a small General Store, which carries all of the basics you might need for your stay.

To access the nature preserve, a traveler first hikes along one of two trails for about 1-2 hours. During this time one will pass through several hundred-year-old coniferous forests mostly made up by Norway Spruce and Downy Birch.

Once the forest is left behind, the tundra appears, which offers the 4810′ Marsfjälets Peak as a nice background.

Some species in Marsfjällets are the Rock and Willow Ptarmigan, Bluethroat, Common Redstart and Lapland Longspur. On Lake Marsliden may be found Arctic Loon and Common Scoter. If you visit during the winter you might also find Dippers diving in the pools in the Ropenbäcken creek.

If hiking out in the wild without the necessity of special permits while at the same time seeing some of the most stunning scenery and wildlife appeals to you, take a look and consider the remote and beautiful places in the Swedish tundra in Västerbotten County, Stekenjokk, and Marslidens Nature Preserve.

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