High Speed Flash Hummingbird Photography Using the Canon Digital System
Text and images copyright Juan Bahamon, all rights reserved

Hummingbirds! I wanted to capture the true beauty of these small and rapidly moving jewels, but I was chronically frustrated with the constant need for faster shutter speeds and higher f-stop numbers. I experimented by freezing the motion of a fast-moving fan blade enough to be able to read small newsprint glued to the blade. After several attempts, I was finally ready to put those techniques to practice on real hummingbirds. With high-speed flash photography, I have been able to reach what may seem impossible: a shutter speed of 1/22000 of a second at an aperture of f/22 !

Figure 1: Magnificent Hummingbird, Madera Canyon, Arizona

How is it done? First, it is important to understand that the fast beating wings of hummers are stopped not with the physical curtain of the shutter in the camera, but with a very brief burst of light coming from a manually dialed flash at very low power. For instance, the Canon 550EX flash can be set to a power at 1/32 that will assure a shutter speed of approximately 1/22000 of a second. These settings are more than adequate to “freeze” the motion of the wings as well as counteract motion blur from camera shake.

The caveat is that at that power, the distance reached by the light is very short, approximately 22 inches. The light will be unidirectional, and the areas where the flash doesn’t reach will end up black due to light fall-off. In order to compensate, I use more than one flash; ideally, I use six!

One flash is set in front of and lower than the bird to capture plumage iridescence;
One flash is set at a 45 degree angle to the right;
One flash is set at a 45 degree angle to the left;
Another flash is directed from the top;
The two remaining flashes are directed towards the background at either side.

Figure 2: Black-Chinned Hummingbird, Madera Canyon, Arizona

Use light stands with small flash studs, such as Bogen/Manfrotto Mini Clamps (#2940), to place the flash units firmly in the right positions. A flash meter is placed in the position where the bird will be hovering and a reading is taken, usually around 1/200 at f/16 or f/22. This will be underexposing with available light by several stops, which ensures the capture will be of the flash-illuminated bird and not the environment.

The flashes can be controlled by a wireless transmitter, such as the Canon Speedlite Transmitter ST-E2, or by another 550EX Speedlite flash. All the confirmatory red blinking lights of the slaves must be aimed at the master flash on the camera.

Digital cameras are excellent in this application as they allow immediate confirmation of histograms and sharpness. Faster frames per second rates will permit the capture of enough action. I use an ISO of 100.

A lens that I like a lot for this approach is the Canon 400 L 5.6; at f/16 or f/22, I find the sharpness is incredible. Another good lens is the Canon 100-400 IS. Both allow a good working distance for frame-filling images as well as the use of vertical rotating rings. With the greater depth-of-field of higher f/stop numbers, the bird will be sharp.

Figure 3: Ruby-throated hummingbird, Rockport, Texas

Locations with shadows seem to work best to prevent too much competition with natural light. The ability to attract hummingbirds to an area, and the bird density of the area, are also factors. Hot spots for hummingbird photography are the town of Rockport, Texas in early September during Ruby-throated Hummingbird migration or Madera Canyon in Arizona.

TIPS: A hummingbird feeder without a ring perch will oblige them to hover for in-flight shots. Scotch tape over each of the openings except one will direct the birds more predictably. Using too much sugar in the water will attract bees.

Natural potted plants with separated blossoms secured with the Wimberley Plamp provide an attractive set-up. Indigenous plants make the images more realistic. Watered frequently, the plants are less likely to wilt and can be used longer. Individual flowers may also work, using the Plamp or other ties to position them correctly. A flower calyx, filled with sugared water from a dropper helps keep the hummingbird around longer.

An easel can be used to support the background, which should consist of soft, shapeless forms. At apertures of f/16 or f/22, sharp borders in the background can compete with the bird or flower. Background colors that compliment the bird and plant can create especially pleasing images. Fabrics or spray paint on a white surface can achieve the right effects. An out-of-focus print of the same flowers used in the set up can also work as a background.

In capturing the action, it’s best to get the bird while approaching the flower, not with the beak immersed in the calyx. Then work to get the iridescence, especially the male’s gorget. It’s worth the effort! The three or four highlights in the bird’s eye from multiple flashes can be reduced in a photo editing program to a more natural look showing just one.

I hope this information and the advances of digital camera systems will allow you to obtain sharp, well-composed and illuminated pictures that will give justice to the natural beauty of these marvelous flying jewels.

Juan Bahamon is a neurologist practicing in Corpus Christi, Texas. He considers himself a serious amateur nature photographer.

Feel free to send your comments on this article to the editors at NatureScapes.Net.

All content on this site is copyrighted material as indicated. Unauthorized use or reproduction is prohibited.